Inca mastery of landscape and environment is epitomised at Machu Picchu, their most famous ruin. Many archaeologists believe Machu Picchu was a summer retreat for the emperor and his family.

After four days of trekking the Inca Trail, I had just reached a pass where I had my first view of Machu Picchu. I thought I knew what to expect, but Machu Picchu is one of the few places in the ...